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Kathmandu intro by Pieter Hofmann Photos by Martine Willox and Patrick Spinks How the times have changed. Depending on your point of view, Shangri-la has joined the 20th century for the better or the worse. A dysfunctional time machine, Katmandu is a collage of crooked, cobbled streets. Flanked by multi-roofed pagodas, a hodge podge restaurants catering to every cuisine, bars with happy hours blasting Morrison, Joplin and Jagger, the capital is a cracked mirror: east meets west. Money change? Hashish? Ghurka knives? Gems? Bootleg tapes, Carpets? And yes, stone sculptures, prayer wheels, or tapes of Buddhist monks chanting. During the 60's and 70's, Katmandu was one of the premier, hash-hazed destinations on the overland tour for any hippie worth a hit of orange sunshine. Now that the world is simply an e-mail or fax away, Nepal hasn't escaped the clutches of globalization. Gone are the days of walking down Freak Street and stumbling into the Himalayan Hash House or indulging in a piece of lemon meringue pie, a bowl of hash and a cold beer at Jamaly's Restaurant in the Thamel district of Katmandu. Due in part to the United States government's successful threat, in the late 80's, to withhold foreign aid, a mainstay to the Nepalese economy, the Kingdom has cracked down, driving more hedonistic pursuits underground. As well, the countries own growing problem of heroin addiction among the local population has resulted in stiffer penalties and less tolerance towards drug use. Considering that the international community provides funding for more than 60% of Nepal's development budget and more than 30% of its total budgetary expenditures, Nepal must heed outside voices. As one of the world's 48 poorest nations (annual income per capita, approx. US$ 200) along with Asia's economic slump, Indo-Pakistani nuclear tensions, Nepalese growth has been relatively poor over the past half decade. Adding to Katmandu's woes is increasing traffic congestion and the ensuing air pollution that nestles above the capital in the valley. Katmandu has caught up with many of Asia's major urban centres; no longer are the streets and alleys a haven for bicycles and pedestrians. Motorcycles and automobiles have taken over with a vengeance, making the maze of streets and alleyways a virtual game of human vs. metal. Recently, Nepal's government instituted measures to curb the congestion including days where cars are banned from the city center altogether. Nonetheless, Katmandu is still a mecca for the adventurous and nostalgic. And justifiably so. For many, the city is the ideal R&R destination after months of difficult travel in neighbouring India or China. Instantly the hassles, complexities and rigidity are washed away with platters of sushi or pizza by the slice: Visa/Mastercard accepted. After a steady diet of dhal, chappatis and chai many travellers first taste of Katmandu is literally from a restaurant menu. Virtually every cuisine has been adapted by the cornucopia of local restaurants, albeit with varying degrees of success. As well, an efficient Poste Restante service, the availability of numerous foreign newspapers and countless bookshops confirms that the outside world still exists. Isolated and landlocked, the Kingdom of Nepal resisted foreign visitors and the ensuing influences until its borders were opened in 1949. Ever since, those in search of enlightenment, trekking or white water rafting have found a country blessed with some of the world's grandest scenery. The sublime beauty and magnitude of the Himalayan Mountain range boasts many of the globe's highest peaks which are readily accessible to trek. Of the 14 peaks above 8000 meters in the world eight are located in Nepal. It is the land of Sagarmatha (a.k.a. Mt. Everest, 8848 meters), the highest peak in the world. Trekking in Nepal by Patrick Spinks The mountains are a major source of international tourism for one of the world poorest nations and climbing expeditions pay enormous permit fees that filter through the Nepalese economy (Everest expeditions are charged $70 000 U.S. for 7 climbers, plus $10 000 for each additional climber) The monetary and other costs (most notably one's life) associated with Himalayan climbing have been well publicized with accounts of the 1996 season where twelve climbers lost their lives. Trekking in Nepal is not only for the rich, in fact, it is an affordable and safe undertaking. Trail networks that access mountain villages, base camps and peaks are well travelled, with lodges and food readily available. The most accessible trek in Nepal is the Annapurna Sanctuary, which takes about seven to nine days return. Ten days or more allows for complete rest days or side trips in the splendor of the mountains. The Annapurna trek brings you to an altitude of 4200 metres, with monstrous snow capped peaks soaring high above. The route passes through camps that have housed the world's most famous climbers, and Annapurna Base Camp which still serves active expeditions as well as casual trekkers. Trekking permits must be obtained from the Department of Immigration in Katmandu, a five minute walk from the Thamel area where most travellers stay. Permits cost $8 (Can) per week, plus a 650 Rs park entry fee ($1 Can.= 40 Nepalese Rupees), and take one day to issue. Applications require two passport size photos and specify trekking dates and areas. Checkpoints exist along the trail with fines levied for invalid permits. Maps of the Annapurna region are widely available for 50 Rs. These are good for naming famous peaks, but not necessary for route finding since everyone follows the same route, and locals are always nearby to ask for directions when the trail forks. Accommodation ranges from dormitory to private rooms with one to three beds, costing between 10-20 Rs for a dorm bed, and 30-60 Rs for a private room. Rooms on other treks (i.e. Everest) go for up to 150 Rs, averaging 50 Rs. Bathrooms are usually pit toilets and where there are no showers, buckets of hot water can be purchased for bathing or laundry. Menus are surprisingly familiar: spaghetti, spring rolls, vegetable or cheese macaroni, all designed to please western tourists. Whether or not this is achieved is another question. Trekkers often joke that you could order the same item at every lodge and never eat the same thing twice. Generally the food is palatable but one should let Nepalese stick to preparing local dishes. Order the ubiquitous dhal bhat, or try >momos= a Tibetan dumpling, particularly prevalent in the Khumbu region around Everest. Meals generally cost about 30-60 Rs. If money is tight, stock up with trail mix in Katmandu or Pohkara before leaving, and add some to your porridge in the morning. Bringing instant noodles and buying hot water from lodges isn=t uncommon, although would be frowned upon if that was all that was ordered. Trekkers should understand they are expected to eat at their chosen lodge. Owners make more money from food and provide cheap accommodation to entice trekkers. Discerning travellers may want to check the lodge=s kitchen as well as the room before agreeing to stay. Although some kitchens follow a reasonable standard of hygiene (for Nepal), disturbing sights include the combination of raw, unrefrigerated meat, domestic animals (dogs, goats, chickens), diaperless babies, dirty dishes and coughing, sneezing porters surrounding food being prepared. Some lodges use only iodine treated water to wash dishes and vegetables, keeping commendable standards and preparing good food. These places are somewhat rare however, and higher prices reflect the increased standards. Stomach ailments are common in Nepal, so come with your hepatitis vaccination and exercise some caution in what you eat and drink. As for gear, travel light, yet be prepared for all types of weather. Rain jackets are essential, and polypropylene under clothes with a fleece layer provide effective insulation in cold weather. If trekking off season, down clothes can be rented in Pohkara and Katmandu, as can sleeping bags (15-30 Rs per day). Extra blankets are available at most lodges. The best months for trekking are April and September -pre and post monsoon respectively- although shoulder seasons are enjoyable, and less crowded. Some lodges have tent sites, but for the price of accommodation, leave it at home and save the weight. Essentials include a water bottle, iodine tablets, hat, sunglasses and sun screen. Treat all drinking water by boiling or adding iodine. A tip for those who find the nights chilly is to get your water bottle filled with boiled water before bed and place it under your blankets as a heater; in the morning, you have sterilized drinking water (which the conservative may then treat with iodine). If unable to carry a pack, there are plenty of porters available for hire. Rates vary from $10-20/day, plus food and accommodation depending on the arrangement. Remember that even with keeping to a budget, porters need to earn a living. The dollar or two a day bargained hard over has a lot more significance for a Nepali than in your travel budget. Porters that are paid a fair wage and treated with respect are more likely to do those special extras to make your trek enjoyable, such as explaining cultural practises and beliefs, and showing you lesser known places. Our trek began in Nayapul, a small village near Phedi, reached by a 400 Rs taxi ride from Pohkara. Pohkara, Nepal's second largest city is located on beautiful Lake Pohkara, a six hour bus ride from Katmandu. In addition to convenient trekking access, Pohkara is also the operations centre for most rafting/kayaking excursions. Taxis are readily available; usually old Toyota Corollas in varying states of disrepair, they are inexpensive and the ride is always exciting. We managed to cram five people plus our packs inside one to split the cost between us. Our first day in the Sanctuary brought us to Ulleri at the top of a a "two hour" (plus!) stairway from hell. The next day seemed a breeze with a four hour walk to Ghorepani, where we climbed Poon Hill for the sunrise, braving the cold winds to watch the day begin over the Annapurna range. Due to the high altitude, those who are not acclimatized should ascend at no more than 400 metres per day. Although this makes for short days walking, it gives ample time to go explore the surrounding area and meet more locals. Gaining altitude, the forests of rhododendron trees in full bloom (April-May) give way to rocky alpine terrain. Machupuchre base camp (altitude 4100 metres) yields phenomenal views of its namesake mountain, and the valley through which you access the area. The peak gleams in the daytime, the sun shining on its rock face visible from across the plains in lower Nepal. Machupuchre means fishtail in Nepali, and the mountain is considered holy, never having been summitted (it is now closed to climbers beyond the base camp). Climbing to Annapurna Base Camp for sunrise offers the amazing sensation of being completely surrounded by towering summits. Those with extra time may find this a good spot for a day off. The return trek was effortless, save for a few climbs out of valleys (villages like Chomrong require grueling climbs in both directions), and relaxing in the natural hotsprings (an hour east of New Bridge), may be a little slimy, but feels great on stiff muscles. Returning from the trek, Pohkara offers the familiarity of home. The genuine kindness of Nepalese culture is evidenced in even the most remote villages; fond memories will include images of jovial porters and smiling children. Spectacular scenery, rich cultural history and treks to some of the highest points on earth. All these and the affordability of travel make Nepal an adventure travel Shangri-la.

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